Metal Reverse Mount

Metal Reverse Mount

Racing Lawnmower?

Im 14 but know a great deal about mowers so dont think im just some stupid kid... im building a racing lawnmower out of a murray mower frame ... im scrapping the tecumsea on board and i have a 12 hp b&s i/c with the govenor removed... i used the one piece flo jet carb on it instead of the factory lmt so i could have a bigger barral with and have a cold air intake system i reversed the stacker pully and will put a 3 inch pully on the tranny. I welded a bracked i cut off of a gocart for throttle lever mounting and strait piped the engine with metal pipe... im working on rewiring it so i wont have any traces of an interlock system. I could use any ideas pics diagrams or any other mods ... thanks

Im currently tinkering on a 8o's Murray lawntractor, its using ( for the moment) a 14HP briggs OHV motor (stock) , stock 6 speed transaxle ( for the meantime) , golf kart wheels/rims, tapered bering hubs on front wheels. The trick is less drag, then its faster- the stock front wheels w/o berings will slow you waaay down, plus be a weak spot, at least look for some with the internal berings. Currently im using the basic drive belt setup/stock clutch setup with extra tensioner pulleys for no slippage, a 6" cast pulley on the motor, a 4" pulley on the transaxle, it gets me near 30MPH in this setup. Obviously the deck is gone , was all rotten when i bot it. I dont suggest leaving the deck on , specially not in running form- remove the blades/spindle assys- being a bare shell would be okay tho - most racers cut them up and just bolt the sides of the deck to the floorbord( for the look of a deck and less weight).
Next step is a 18HP flathead twin cylender Briggs i got off a 92 MTD - im hooking a 'snap back throttle 'setup on it, using a high flow air filter element ( bypassing stock air cleaner assy), possibly a slightly larger engine pulley, meybe a 1/2" smaller trans pulley. Right now my limitations are in the trans, for speed options, once it lets go, ill swap a 90 degree right angle drive unit in , run a chain setup to a straight axle rear end and have to use a go kart clutch or torque drive setup ( since no tranny will be there) . This isnt setup to race , this is for personal experementation, I do have to add a few saftey issues here tho:
1. Brakes - use a set of GOOD aftermarket go kart brakes, stock brakes wont work at those speeds ( trust me, things come at you mighty fast with no brakes)
2. Id suggest not bypassing the governer, unless its been highly machined to acept the extra RPMs, theyre only designed for 3,000 max RPMs, theres a chance the flywheel could shatter , not to mention how fast parts would fly from the motor overevving it. You can get alot of speed with a goverener on it ( mines still on it and it runs 30MPH)
3. Wear a helmit and saftey gear! I wear a helmit when i drive my tractor- you only come with one brain and it scrambles easy!
4. Have some welding done : Id suggest strengthing alot of the parts on the tractor, steering, front spindles, chassis. You can buy or make a set of front spindles that are stronger then stockers and they accept a go kart type hub for those wheels. A differnt type of steering should be used as well, the go kart type is stronger and better then stock - you dont want to be flying around and have it break on you.
5. Build the tractor low, the lower the better, when its too far off the ground, its top heavy making it easier to tip over on you, the lower/wider the more stability.
6. I have to add this one as well.... common sense. Dont drive on the streets or roads, if you have alot of property, then use it there. You dont want to be pulled over by the police on a lawntractor ( its not a leagal motor vehicle for the streets) , or worse, get run over by a car. If you really want to race them with others, join a lawntractor racing group in your area ( yes they have them) theres specific guidelines to setup your tractor, but its for saftey purposes - use google for one in your area.
7. Id also suggest one more thing - a saftey kill switch - id suggest the one that hooks to your arm( like new snowmobiles/jet skis) and a seat switch. That way, if y slip and fall off the tractor wont keep running.
8. You mentioned a straight pipe, motors need a certain amount of backpressure to run right, I have a straight pipe on mine for now, i plan on using some threaded black pipe and fittings to run it down n under the floorbord - a way to tell how long to make it? At first, make it a bit long, spray some white paint on the pipe and run the motor for a bit, where the paint turns brown is where to cut it. With the twin cylender and twin pipes - it should look sweet, i plan on looking for some chrome drain pipe( for bathroom sinks/ect) to cover the black pipe.
This tractor is actually my second, the first was a older Craftsman with a 14.5HP OHV Briggs, till the 5 speed trans locked up, then i made the Murray. The next one will be a screemer, out of a old Wheelhorse Raider 10, lowered , near full blown racing setup and using a 16HP tecumseh motor with oil pressure ( oil pressured motors are better for racing setups) , plan on using go kart wheels, spindles, steering, full chain drive, straight rear axle and the right angle gear drive ( its a 1:1 unit, used on bush hogs, field mowers).
Kidd

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