Canon Zoom Lenses 18-200
Camera shake and image stabilization (Shake Reduction)
When first buying camera equipment you see a plenty of lenses that have IS or VR designations on them. This is the image stabilization or reduction vibration. That mean the same thing except Canon uses the first term and Nikon uses the second. These mechanisms are based on the camera lens to avoid the "camera shake". I will discuss how to get rid of camera shake and why I bought a VR lens for me.
What is Camera Shake?
When you're holding the camera in his hands and looking through the viewfinder to take your photo, your body is making slight movements. This is a natural thing that your body is always correct itself and move your muscles to help maintain balance. However, makes small movements of his camera. When the camera focused on a topic that is a reasonable distance, these small movements become more noticeable.
For example. If your hand shakes slightly and turns your camera 1 degree outside the address line and your subject is 15 feet away, this would correspond to 3.1 inches being added in the direction of the camera turned. Now they say that the movement of his hand was when the picture was taken while the shutter was open. This would blur the image on film or in digital imaging.
How do I prevent my images from blurred?
There 3 ways to prevent this.
- Make sure you have a shutter speed fast enough for your hand movements do not affect to the image.
- Use a tripod.
- Have a Vibration Reduction lens or image stabilization.
Each of these methods have their pros and cons.
1. They have a fast shutter speed Enough
Ideally, you want it this situation all the time. The golden rule is that you need a shutter speed of 1 over the focal length of your lens is set. So if you is extended to the end with his 300 mm lens you would want 1 / 300 seconds shutter speed or better (for 1 / 320 of the standard camera). This usually guarantees (for the average user), the shutter will not be open long enough to make your hand movement visible in the final image if a steady hand you'll be able to leave with a slower speed. The catch here is will you have enough light to expose the image. If half a clear day you are fine. If it is darker than could having to use a more sensitive film, but this will make your photo is grainy.
Note: When you see expensive lenses with the same capacity zoom, like a cheaper lens, look at the maximum aperture of this objective. Most likely it will be much larger than the cheapest. F/2.8 is common. The smaller the number, the greater openness can go. This means a lot more light you get when you stop taking the picture, so it will be capable of speeds faster shutter.
2. Use a Tri-pod
This always works. Now you can have the shutter open as long as you want and the image will have no blurred (this is assuming that your object does not move or moves slowly). Tripods are cumbersome and annoying though. And definitely do not work in a lot of circumstances, especially traveling.
3. Using a lens with image stabilization or vibration reduction
It is "play in the environmental approach," as you still need a decent shutter speed, but it will require a tripod and cheaper than a fast lens. inside the chamber there is a mechanism to adjust the glass lenses slightly to compensate for the movements of your hand. IS and VR will give a speed Shutter few stops back. So if you can not get enough light to be 1 / 320 sec shutter speed, as in the example above. VR allows down to 1 / 125 sec (4 stops right in ideal situations). Many times, this will give enough light to properly expose the image. VR and IS lenses will cost additional, but still cheaper than buying fast lenses I mentioned above. Fast lenses tend not to have much ability to zoom, either (a limitation to have a grand opening).
The The main article is an example of two images. One of them was taken without VR on and the other had VR. This is a picture taken in my house with my Nikon D70s with Nikon 18-200mm VR.
To summarize. The cheapest solution is to buy a tripod, the second is to buy a lens with IS or VR, and most expensive is to buy "fast" lenses. I am a casual photographer and use it more to travel so VR has been the best option for me. If you are with similar needs and want to eliminate camera shake over your photos, then I definitely recommend looking at VR and IS lenses.
For more photography articles by this author, please check out www.thoughtsfrommylife.com / Photography category.
About the Author
The author maintains the site www.thoughtsfrommylife.com.
I just bought a Canon Rebel XSi with 55-250 Zoom Lens. What limitations have telephoto?
It is a 12.2 megapixel camera B & H, and a 55-250 telephoto zoom lens. It focuses very well, but it seems i cannot take pictures of whole body and to engage closely and I have to be away enlarge instead of closing and only focus. it isn't bad, but im confused about what is the difference between the standard and telephoto lenses is? If someone has a recommnedationd as a standard 18-200 lens would be compatible with the canon rebel id appreciate it
Did not you get the objective standard kit (18 to 55 mm lens) as well? With the 55 to 250 mm lens, it certainly can "zoom in", but has no lens to a general level. A 18-200 mm lens that overlap what you have.
Sigma 18-200 3.5-6.3 DC & Canon EOS 300D
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